#5

A Journey Through a Winter Wonderland: Exploring a Spectacular Canyon with Wine and Spiritual Retreats Saori Abe
President & CEO, Interlink Japan Ltd.

As someone who deeply loves wine, shrines, and spiritual retreats, I embarked on a journey this winter to Sounkyo in the Taisetsuzan Mountain Range—a place I had yet to experience.
Given my profession, I drink wine almost daily, with Japanese wines being my go-to choice at home. I specialize in planning tourism projects centered around Hokkaido’s wine and cuisine, which means that tasting new wines is essentially part of my job. Still, even for someone like me, taking time to soak in a hot spring, indulge in delicious food, and rejuvenate both mind and body is the ultimate way to recharge.

For this trip, I chose to stay at Hotel Taisetsu ONSEN & CANYON RESORT, an alpine resort with a 71-year history currently undergoing rebranding for the next century. Curious about the stories woven into this historic establishment, I eagerly set off, feeling like a true hotel aficionado.
Being a hotel aficionado myself, I was once a member of the "Hotel Junkies Club," inspired by Chifumi Murase, who founded the club in 1997. Her book left a lasting impression on me, and I fondly recall those days of hotel exploration.

From Sapporo, I drove north along the Hokkaido Expressway for just under three hours. Taking advantage of the journey, I arranged a visit to a winery along the way.
My destination was Ebeotsu Wein in Takikawa City, a winery that opened in 2023 as the first in the central Sorachi region. The winery’s owners, the Takahashi family, relocated from Tokyo and began cultivating grapes here in 2016, ultimately fulfilling their dream of establishing a winery.

Hokkaido has been gaining recognition both domestically and internationally as a premier wine region. As of January this year, there were 71 wineries, making it the third-largest winemaking region in Japan after Yamanashi and Nagano. Initially, the area was known for wild grapes and table grapes, but thanks to dedicated growers, vitis vinifera (grape varieties specifically for winemaking) have flourished, particularly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—varieties extensively cultivated in Burgundy, France.
Since 2010, Hokkaido has become one of Japan’s leading regions for these grapes. At Ebeotsu Wein, only vitis vinifera grapes are grown. Their white wine is a blend of seven varieties, while their Pinot Noir-based red wine offers rich black fruit aromas, a crisp acidity characteristic of a cool climate, and a smooth umami-laden finish, making it an excellent choice for pairing with meals.

Kosuke Takahashi (left) and Mitsuru Takahashi (right) of Ebeotsu Wein

After an inspiring conversation with Kosuke Takahashi, a member of the owner's family, and eagerly anticipating their upcoming releases, I departed the winery.

On my way, I spotted a torii gate—Ebeotsu Shrine! This shrine is known for its “smiling komainu” guardian dogs, said to bring good fortune. Feeling an auspicious start to my journey, I stopped to pay my respects and purify my heart.

The “Smiling Komainu,” a famous feature of Ebeotsu Shrine, was carefully covered for protection

Back on the expressway from Fukagawa, I drove northeast for another hour and forty minutes, entering Taisetsuzan National Park’s Sounkyo Gorge—revered in the Ainu language as Kamui Mintara, or "The Playground of the Gods." The moment I arrived, I was overwhelmed by the sacred beauty of the place.
A surprising discovery awaited me—another shrine called Taisetsuzan Sounkyo Shrine! And to my amazement, a family of Ezo deer greeted me upon arrival. It felt as if the gods were bestowing their blessing upon me, sending chills down my spine—both from the awe and the sub-zero temperatures!

A mother and baby Ezo deer welcomed me at Taisetsuzan Sounkyo Shrine

By the time the sun dipped behind the mountains, I checked into Hotel Taisetsu ONSEN & CANYON RESORT. With an outside temperature of -9°C, I was more than ready for a hot spring soak.
My room, Wabo Yukihana, featured a stunning private open-air style bath with a nostalgic charm. I was welcomed with freshly whisked matcha tea, allowing me to embrace the profound tranquility of wabi-sabi.

I had brought along some wine to enjoy in my room.
At the hotel shop, I came across a sake with a simple yet stylish logo that caught my eye, so I decided to buy it as a souvenir. This limited-edition sake was a collaboration between Hotel Taisetsu and Ryokkyugura of Kamikawa Taisetsu Sake Brewery. Even as a devoted wine lover, I couldn’t help but be intrigued by this special collaboration.

Dinner was served in the exclusive private dining space Kikyou An, reserved for guests staying at Wabo Yukihana. The meal featured a full-course Japanese dining experience showcasing seasonal Hokkaido ingredients. The beautifully arranged dishes, including fresh seafood and premium wagyu, elevated the experience. The menu was thoughtfully designed to highlight Hokkaido’s rich food culture, offering a gastronomic journey that paired exquisite cuisine with local sake. Particularly impressive was the sashimi presentation—a kamakura (snow dome) setting, sure to delight both domestic and international guests. So cool!

After dinner, I unwound in the open-air style bath of my room, then explored the hotel's shop, where I discovered their original T'AIsetsu hair care line, available for purchase.

Drifting off to sleep to the gentle rhythms of bossa nova, I woke at dawn, eager for my next adventure—touring the hotel’s three grand baths. My personal favorite was the Tenga no Yu, an open-air bath offering a breathtaking winter canyon view, located on the 3rd floor of Taisetsusanso annex.
The crisp air, falling snowflakes, and surrounding gorge created an indescribable serenity. Taking deep breaths, I let the moment sink in.

For breakfast, I chose a Western-style spread of vibrant salads, hearty soup, freshly baked in-house bread, seasonal fruit, scrambled eggs, tomato juice, and coffee—so abundant that it filled the table with its beautiful and healthy colors. Gazing through the window, I realized that at Hotel Taisetsu, whether in my room, the bath, or the dining space, nature was always within view, stimulating the mind and nourishing the senses.

Feeling fully recharged, I checked out, reluctant to leave this haven. Before departing, I browsed the hotel's library space, where to my delight, I found my own book on display.
What a perfect start to the day!

To conclude my trip, I visited Sounkyo’s iconic waterfalls—Ginga-Ryusei Waterfalls, both frozen into magnificent ice formations. I even encountered ice climbers scaling the frozen cascades. But the most breathtaking sight was Obako, a valley with towering columnar cliffs standing like a vast rock curtain. Stepping forward, I gazed up at the sky—only to be greeted by a hazel grouse, a rare, near-threatened species. What an incredible, unexpected encounter!
Breathing in the pristine, invigorating air, I felt immense gratitude for this sacred place.

Experiencing winter in the Taisetsuzan Sounkyo area for the first time, I was awestruck by Hokkaido’s grandeur. In just two days, I had recharged my spirit, marking the beginning of a new year and a new chapter in my journey. Even now, the lingering echoes of wabi-sabi and the unparalleled scenic beauty of Hotel Taisetsu continue to resonate within me.
Without a doubt, I will return.
Hotel Taisetsu ONSEN & CANYON RESORT—a gastronomic retreat set in one of Japan’s most majestic landscapes, where nature, cuisine, and culture seamlessly intertwine. A place I confidently recommend to any fellow hotel enthusiast.

The chirping echoing in the icicles
at winter dawn paints the future
in the garden of Kamui.